It's a beautiful afternoon, and perfect weather for a visit to nearby Watkins Glen State Park, only minutes from the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel. They say if you only hike one trail, it should be the Gorge Trail at the state park. Let's do it! But there's a small hitch: Pam discovers she left her hiking shoes at home, and since the trail can be slippery and is rated "moderate," she opts to pass. So I'm on my own. You can begin the 1.5-mile hike at either the bottom of the park, or the top. I chose the top, or the South Entrance, and after paying the $10 entrance fee, head for the starting point. Like the Finger Lakes, glacial forces and water carved our this unique terrain over the last million years, and today the water flowing from Glen Creek powers 19 waterfalls that continue to eat away the rocks that form the gorge, creating spectacular photo opportunities. While rated a moderate hike, walking it is made much easier thanks to the efforts of the Civilian Conservation Corps, who in the 1930s, built hundreds of steps and stairs into the rocks along the way. With water bottle and map in hand, I was off. There’s nothing quite like being one with Nature, and the hike through the gorge in the bright afternoon sun didn’t disappoint. There was something to "ooh and aah" about around every corner, and some of the waterfalls are truly spectacular. One of the highlights of the trail is the Cavern Cascade, where you literally walk behind the falling water. Another highlight is Rainbow Falls, so named because light on it releases a symphony of colors. Toward the end you’ll find Frowning Cliff, where lack of light means few plants can grow. Part of the trail was blocked off due to "hazardous conditions," but there still was plenty to admire. Join the hike, via photos and video. I hated Pam had to miss it!
Video/Photos by North Palm Beach Life
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Another day has zoomed by, and so has our visit to Watkins Glen and the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel. It really is the perfect place to see and do all the area has to offer, with everything you would want in a resort. One last walk along the pier and then time to pack up. Tomorrow we head out to our next port of call on the Empire State Road Trip -- the 1000 Islands of the St. Lawrence Seaway and the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel. Stay with us! As we begin the last leg of our Empire State Road Trip, the route to our next destination, the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel, takes us north on State Road 14 to I-90 East and on to Syracuse, where we'll pick up I-81 north to Clayton. The distance is right at 175 miles. If we had more time, we would stop along the way at Seneca Falls, the town that reportedly gave Frank Capra the inspiration for the fictional city of Bedford Falls in his Christmas classic, "It's a Wonderful Life." There's a museum there devoted to the movie. But it's on the list for next time. It's bright and sunny when we arrive in Clayton, a charming village nestled along the St. Lawrence River. A longtime vacation destination, its featured attractions include the Clayton Opera House and the Antique Boat Museum (more on that coming in a subsequent post). The 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel, opened in 2014, is similar in size, decor, amenities and architecture to its two sister properties. Rated Four Diamond by AAA, it has 105 guestrooms and suites, many with balconies that overlook the river. There's an indoor swimming pool, fitness room, the Seaway Grille restaurant and 1000 Islands Bar. Of course, one of their best features is the Riverside Patio, a spacious outdoor area with plenty of chairs to relax with a drink or share a spectacular sunset with friends. Let's take a tour: Photos by North Palm Beach Life TOMORROW: The Antique Boat Museum and a boat ride on the St. Lawrence River.
As we set out to explore Clayton, we were excited to visit one of the area's main attractions -- the Antique Boat Museum. It's a sprawling complex, comprised of 10 buildings on 4.5 acres along the St. Lawrence shoreline. Their mission: Preserve and showcase America's boating heritage. We are fortunate to get a private tour of the museum from their executive director, Rebecca Hopfinger. She starts by showing us one of their crown jewels, the La Duchesse -- "The Duchess" -- a 106-foot houseboat built in 1903 for hotel magnate George Boldt, who once managed the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York. For well over 100 years, this area of the St. Lawrence River was a playground to the rich and famous, whose mansions populate the islands and towns along the water. Boldt was among the richest of the rich, and we'll see more evidence of that later on this trip. Ms. Hopfinger told us the La Duchesse was donated to the museum by the McNally family (of Rand McNally fame) and opened for tours in 2005, welcoming some 20,000 visitors a year. Over the years, it's been lovingly restored and maintained. Inside one can imagine the lavish parties and summer outings she has hosted. But don't just imagine it. Take the tour: Photos by North Palm Beach Life
After our time touring La Duchesse, Rebecca Hopfinger, the Antique Boat Museum's executive director, took us to some of their exhibit areas. Of course, you would need more time to see everything, so we focused on two exhibits: "The National Motor Boat Show" and "The Quest for Speed." Recreational motor boating goes back to 1900, and the first National Motor Boat Show was held in New York City five years later. Much like car shows, consumers saw the latest and greatest in boats, motors and new technology. Housed in its own two-story building, "The National Motor Boat Show" steps you back in time to see motor boating through the years. The boats here are showroom new, with familiar names like Chris-Craft, Gar Wood and Hacker. It brought back a lot of memories for Pam, whose father owned three Chris-Craft cruisers. The "Quest for Speed" also has its own building, debuting in 2008. Here you can trace the whole history of man's attempt to go fast on the water, including historic racing boats, engines and vintage posters. One wall features the evolution of speed records, the latest clocking in at over 317 MPH. At that rate, you get go from New to London in about 10 hours! Take a look: Photos by North Palm Beach Life
As we end our tour of the exhibits at the Antique Boat Museum, our next stop is one of the boats the museum maintains as part of “In Water Fleet”: Miss 1000 Islands, reproduced from the original 1930s design by the Hacker Boat Company in New York. This 30-foot, mahogany runabout, powered by a Mercury 8.1 liter, 385-horsepower engine, is a real beauty. And in a few moments, Pam and I will step aboard for an exhilarating ride on the St. Lawrence River. We are introduced to Captain Bruce, our pilot, and once aboard, we head out on the river. Capt. Bruce is native to the area, and we learn not only about the river and its rich history, but also about all the wealthy families whose mansions line the banks and islands. If you're counting, there are more than 1,000 islands in the 1,000 Islands area -- 1,864 islands (give or taker a few), split between the U.S. and Canada (you can see Canada in the distance, as well as the bridge that connects the two countries). Capt. Bruce explains we don’t want to venture into Canadian waters – with the COVID lockdown in place, you could risk a hefty fine. Out in the open water, the captain asks if we want to go slow or fast. No thinking long on that one: Fast! The engine roars to life and we are soon speeding along at an exhilarating 45 knots, our hair flying in the wind. Afterwards, Capt. Bruce took us at a slower pace by a lighthouse and talked about the long-ago geology that formed this region. One more note to add: Don’t be surprised if an enormous tanker or cargo ship suddenly appears. The seaway, with its locks and canals, is the main thoroughfare for ocean-going ships to travel from the Atlantic to the Great Lakes, going as far as Duluth, MN. Taking the ride with Capt. Bruce was easily one of the most memorable 90 minutes of our road trip. If you are in the Clayton or 1000 Islands area, the Antique Boat Museum is definitely a must-see. See for yourself: Video/Photos by North Palm Beach Life
It's our second day in Clayton, and today's agenda starts with a visit to George Boldt's castle. Yesterday, we toured La Duchesse, Boldt's houseboat, now permanently docked at the Antique Boat Museum. Boldt was the ultra-rich New York hotel magnate who spent his summers in the 1000 Islands. Apart from the 106-foot houseboat, Boldt commissioned a 127-room, six-story residence on Heart Island for the love of his life, his wife, Louise. It would be one of the largest private residences every built in this country. At least, that was the plan. Work began in 1900, involving hundreds of workers and tradesmen. Then, unexpectedly, in 1904 Louise Boldt died, and Boldt ordered all work to cease. Boldt himself would never return to Heart Island. Almost 75 years later, a group acquired the deteriorating structure and started restoration. Today you can get a sense of Boldt's vision . Tours of the castle are only available by boat, so we begin by visiting Clayton Islands Tours. Adjacent to the tour office is Kay’s Kitchen, a food truck that offers passengers picnic lunches to go. Pam and I opt for chicken tenders, and just the aromas make me ready to eat right now. It’s another gloriously sunny day, and not quite as hot. Picture perfect for a boat ride. Normally, Heart island would be crowded, but since Canadians are in lockdown in response to COVID, it's not quite as busy. We depart the boat and head for the castle, tour tickets in hand. The first two floors have been restored to their original design, as have the grounds around. One can only imagine the full opulence Boldt had in mind to honor his wife. One question visitors ask is the origin of Thousand Island Dressing. There’s some dispute, but the prevailing story is that it was the creation of a fishing guide’s wife in the early 1900s. Regardless, it did come to the attention of Boldt, who ordered it placed on the menu at his Waldorf-Astoria hotel in New York. Ready? Let's start the tour... Photos by North Palm Beach Life
Wine, craft beers and distilleries are prominent in the St. Lawrence River Valley, and back from our castle tour, we have the afternoon available to visit a few. The wine here is produced from special cold-hardy grapes, as you might expect this far north. Our first stop was Northern Flow Vineyards, established in 2015. Located on a farm by the St. Lawrence, its cold-and disease-resistant grapes were developed by the University of Minnesota, one of the nation's leading grape research programs. They maintain more than 12,000 experimental vines on 12 acres. We have a tasting at one of their outdoor tables, beside a trellis that fronts their vintage. As is our usual, Pam goes bolder reds and I opt for the sweet flight. We relax and soak up the moment under the shade of a wide umbrella. Life in the 1000 Islands is good indeed. Our next stop is Coyote Moon Vineyards, which we noticed also maintain a tasting room on the river walk near the hotel – and where they also offer boat wine cruises from the pier. Their family-owned vineyards are located some four miles away on 400 acres that once was an abandoned farm. Inside, we find a safety-conscious stuffed coyote on the bar wearing a face mask. Coyote Moon also produces their wine from cold-hardy grapes, and we enjoyed it so much we bought a bottle of their LaCrescent, a white wine with “strong citrus notes and a hint of sweetness.” Like many of their wines, it features distinctive label artwork by the owner’s wife, Mary Randazzo. Join us for a tasting... Photos by North Palm Beach Life
Here we are -- the final night of our Empire State Road Trip. What an amazing trip it's been. We'll take one more stroll on the river walk, have dinner at the 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel and watch the sunset over the St. Lawrence River from the hotel patio. Pour your favorite cocktail and join us. Photos by North Palm Beach Life
Our Empire State Road Trip journey covered 12 days and 3,245 miles -- Palm Beach to Chautauqua, NY, across to Watkins Glen, up to Clayton and back to Florida. While we packed a lot in, there were still so much we didn't see. We're very grateful to the Harbor Hotel group who hosted our stays, and to the tourist agencies in Chautauqua, Watkins Glen and the 1000 Islands for their assistance and recommendations. And a special thank you to all the great people we encountered at wineries, museums, restaurants and attractions all along the way.
While it may not be as fast as other forms of transportation, there's nothing like seeing this wonderful country by car. And in the circumstances of a pandemic, it may be the safest way to see the country. So when the mood strikes for an adventure, it's all starts at your driveway. Safe travels! |
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